Take the bikes and head to ‘La Feniglia’ beach, a 6km long pine-covered promontory for pedestrians & cyclists only – 1st Ansedonia exit from the Aurelia – look for signs for La Feniglia. Take a picnic lunch in the rucksacks and head for the wild beaches – best exits are from 3-5 (there are 6 exits from the cycle path). Spend the day reading under the drift wood huts on this incredibly sauvage coastline.
Activities (Just a selection)
Discover the delights of nearby Pitigliano (45 mins’ drive) a spectacular town carved out of ‘tufo’ high on the rocks above. Be sure to visit the town’s synagogue. ‘La Rocca’ restaurant in the main piazza overlooking the aquaduct-end is good for aperitivi and lunch. For a cheap & cheerful authentic local alternative, try ‘La Trattoria Pappa al Pomodoro’. Great for antique-hunting – especially the antichita’ near to the archway entrance to the old town.
Spend the day at the nearby Parco dell’Uccellina (head to Albarese and then to the Marina di Albarese). Boasting some of the most beautiful wild beaches and spectacular hikes – admire the iconic Maremmana cattle on the way. Take a picnic and explore this dramatic and local legendary wilderness. Go early to avoid the entry barrier queues.
The COOP supermarket at Orbetello is your one-stop-shop
If you are running short of supplies, the COOP supermarket at Orbetello is your one-stop-shop, giving you an excuse to combine practicalities with pleasure. Head first toOrbetello, parking on the right hand-side car park as you go in (cheaper tariffs!). Stroll along the ‘corso’ through Orbetello old town – lovely boutique shopping, best ice-cream in the area at the Gelateria on the corner in the main piazza. Nice bar in the main piazza, and further down on the right hand turn from the piazza you will come to another smaller piazza with another great bar. There is a fantastic multi-sala cinema often showing pre-releases before they hit Rome! Don’t miss the famous bookshop at the other end of the corsia. Restuarants not to miss in Orbetello – the ‘Bersagliera Pizzeria’, and the ‘Cooperativa di Pescatore’ near the parking – a rough & ready ‘from lagoon to plate’ in rustic setting.
From Orbetello, why not head to Porto Ercole or to Porto Santo Stefano? Porto Ercole has a series of wonderfully quaint port-front bars. Look for ‘Cafe Piazetta’ on the right of the port with the white plastic furniture and white umbrellas – the most chic looking on the promenade. More expensive than the others but great apperitivi and snacks. ‘Porto Santo Stefano’ is a nice drive there but you need to drive round past the port to get to the nicer bars & cafes. Do not stay in the main port area – bit grotty – even if the fish stalls there have some of the best fish around to take home. HOWEVER – it’s worth a day trip to Isola di Giglio – and you take the ferry (1 hour) from Porto Santo Stefano. Buy your tickets in advance online or by calling and park your car in the day parking near to the embarkation point. Go early to avoid the crowds.
Heading back from the Aurelia, turning off at agliano/Albinia/Parrina/Manciano exit – DO NOT MISS – a bar/cafe on the left hand side just before the Albinia roundabout – ‘Garabombo’.Whilst it looks like an unassuming Tabacchi/Bar – it serves THE BEST MARTINI IN THE WORLD! Along with other great cocktails – people come far and wide for their martinis and abundant snacks.
”La Parrina – farm shop, restaurant, B&B”
On this same road, 5 mins’ earlier on your right hand side – you will see a sign for La Parrina – farm shop, restaurant, B&B – this is a must-see also. The farm shop has delicious organic fruit & veg, fresh goat & cow yoghurt, wine, cheese, you name it! The restaurant is also worth a visit – but check for opening times and get a table on the verandah. Nice for something a bit more formal.
The famous Michelin-star restaurant ‘Da Caino’”
Nearby Montemerano is a hill-top picturesque village definitely worth a visit. It boasts the famous Michelin-star restaurant ‘Da Caino’ – but be prepared for it being full up (reservations well in advance) and prices around euros 500 for dinner 2 persons! However, they have newly opened a bar next door that serves great apertivi and more casual food such as burgers. Worth a walk around – atmospheric after dark. (15 min’s drive from the house)
”‘Public Saturnia pools’ – a series of pools and waterfalls with garden areas and sunbeds or chairs for lounging & relaxing.”
For something less energetic, you can spend a half day (morning or afternoon) at the payable ‘public Saturnia pools’ – a series of pools and waterfalls with garden areas and sunbeds or chairs for lounging & relaxing. Approx euros 25 per person for a half day (rent of chairs & sunbeds extras. Not to be confused with the more expensive options on offer at the ‘Hotel Saturnia’ next door which offers a day pass with access to their Spa & Gym facilities AND the public pools, with bathrobes and sunlounger for approx euros 80 per person. Recommendation – pay for the afternoon in the public pools, take in a picnic – although eat lightly – the minerals in the water are potent! Pay for a 1 time access to the Olympic-sized mineral pool in the Hotel Saturnia for approx euros 10 per person (you can stay in as long as you want to use the pool & waterfalls in the private grounds of the hotel but can’t use the facilities). Don’t forget to take your towels – there are plenty for use in the house.
”A day spent at Saturnia Thermal Pools & Springs.”
No visit to this area would be complete without a day spent at Saturnia Thermal Pools & Springs. Only a stone’s throw (15 mins’ drive) from our house, you have options! You can visit ‘Le Cascade’ – on the left hand side as you enter Saturnia. These are for the more adventurous: the parking is limited and it gets super busy as it is free entrance. The rock ledges are slippy underfoot and can be quite sharp, but the waterfall cascades are invigorating and dramatic.
A MUST-STOP place for lunch
When heading to and from the Aurelia via Magliano – a MUST-STOP place for lunch is the uninspiring setting of ” Trattoria Mamma Mia” just outside of Magliano on the way to the Aurelia (for Ansedonia, La Fenigilia, Porto Ercole, Orbetello, Santo Stefano). Located behind a ‘benzinaio’ – this hidden gem trattoria is a highlight of any Maremma Safari! Try the papperdelle cinghiale, la trippa, and the agnello fritto or chinghiale in umido – you won’t get better! A gathering place for the local cacciatori/hunters – great for people watching!
Another day at the beach calling?
Another day at the beach calling? Head to “Le Dune – La Tagliata” beach, at Ansedonia. This time take the 2nd exit to Ansedonia exit from the Aurelia. Follow signs for Mare. When you come to the crossroads for Ansedonia – go straight across to MARE – and turn left at the ‘La Tagliata’ signpost. Continue until you find the paid parking on the left hand side. Walk across to Le Dunes – you pay for a bed and umbrella – for the half day or day. Take a picnic or get a table at ‘La Strega’ restaurant for a lunch with a view (advisable to book in August). While away the hours – reading, walking, swimming in the beautiful sea.
”Morellino di Scansano wine producers”
A must do is the visit to one or two of the producers of Morellino di Scansano wine, starting from our nearest neighbour: awards-winning Roccapesta see www.roccapesta.com
”Summer festivals – called sagra”
From June to October, there are many summer festivals – called sagra – in very village of the area, all worth visiting if not only for their amazing food stalls
”Music and art festival”
Through the summer, there is a music and art festival of about 20 events called Morellino Music Festival that brings mostly classical music to incredible locations, often private villas and castles;